Now that we’ve identified some common breast shapes and their characteristics, I’m going to show examples that illustrate how different bras fit different shapes. Because as we know, not all breasts are created equal, and not every bra in our collection will be the best for every body.
For my first case study, I’ll start with myself. I identify myself as wide-set and splayed. I also have breast implants, which make the upper portion of my breasts fuller than normal and create reduced-projection from my nipples down. Because my breasts are full on top, balconettes and demi cups usually work best on me. Below, I’ve photographed myself in each bra style we currently make so you can see how each style fits, how certain styles accentuate and flatter my shape, and how others do me no favors. I can't stress enough how important knowing your shape is. Once you know, your relationship with bras will be completely different.
Demi bras are one of my go-to bras for my breast shape. Notice how from the side profile, the top of the Classic Demi Bra cups are snug against my breasts and the binding and straps all lay flat against my skin. You should not have any gaps, nor should your cups ever be so tight that they create a dent in your breast profile.
The Balconette sits exactly where it should on my chest. The center gore (a.k.a. the bridge) sits flat on my chest and anchors the underwires, and the cups fit perfectly. From straight on, this bra looks great. It doesn’t cut me off at the top or dig in. However, because I have reduced projection, you can tell I’m not filling out the bottom half of the cups. This is more obvious when you look at the side profile. Because I don’t have enough lower breast to fill out the cups properly, the bra creates an angled mid point instead of a nice, curved, smooth appearance.
The Triangle Pullover Bra is great for most breast shapes. I personally love this style because it is great for women with wide set breasts. Notice how the fabric of the cups extends underneath my underarms so I don’t spill out on the sides. It’s cupping my breasts and gently bringing them more towards the center. The fabric of the cup lays flat against my chest. There is no loose or baggy fabric in the cup. The elastic band also lays flat underneath my breasts, giving me the support I need for a relaxed, natural fit.
The Triangle Underwire Bra can be an intimidating bra to try. However, if you are wide-set, have fuller breasts, or have bell-shaped breasts, this is a great style for you. The underwire we use on this bra is called a rocker wire, and it is much wider than normal underwires. Where most underwires resemble half circles, the rocker wire resembles more of an egg shape (if it were cut lengthwise). I love a rocker underwire because most times when I wear bras, I feel like the underwear is digging into the sides of my breasts. This underwire doesn’t come up as high, nor is it as round—so I never have an issue of digging or feeling like the underwire is too small for the position of my breasts. Notice again how the fabric lays flat to my chest, and there is no digging or bulging. My nipples are in the center of the bra, which is where they should be. The side profile is smooth and the bra is flattering.
I would not recommend this bra for women whose breasts are more centered or close together. They might feel as if their boobs aren’t being held in or as if their nipples could slip out. But if you have archetypal breasts or anything wider, you should definitely give this bra a try. This is not a push-up bra. It’s a bra that provides comfort and gives your breasts a natural-looking shape.
If your breasts are deflated (or less full), this wouldn’t be my first choice for you because you might not have adequate volume to fill the upper part of the cups; or you might feel like there is excess fabric as the cups extend up towards your shoulders.
The pictures below are of the Lightweight Triangle Soft Bra. I could not wear this bra in our bamboo because the fabric was too soft and basically did nothing for me. The lightweight fabric provides more support and does a better job of holding me in. It’s not pushing me up or doing anything to contour my shape, but that’s not the point of this bra. It’s easy, it’s comfortable, you can sleep in it, you can lounge in it, and you can leave the house in it.
I personally love the Molded Plunge Soft Bra. After I had kids, and pre-boob job, I was super-insecure about my breasts. They were suddenly deflated and droopy. And to make matters worse, my nipples grew three sizes after breast-feeding. It made me feel uncomfortable when I wore tight or flimsy tops because you could always see my nipples through my clothes. I avoided most molded underwire bras because they just gave me cheesy vibes. I didn’t want that Victoria’s Secret padded push-up look. I just wanted a comfortable bra with a little bit of molding and no underwire. I found it impossible at the time to find that… until we started Kit Undergarments. The molding on this bra is soft enough that you’ll forget it’s there, and it has just enough thickness to cover any “nipple hard ons.”
I love this bra because it gives your breasts a nice shape, contours them and has no underwire. If you really want my honest evaluation for this bra for my shape, I’d say the darts may be a little too high for my breasts. This creates a bit of a fit issue (which happens to be common for me because of my implants) because my breasts are full on top and without a lot of projection.
To re-cap, the bras that I’ll be keeping in my top drawer are: the Classic Demi Bra, Triangle Pullover Bra, Triangle Underwire Bra, and the Molded Plunge Soft Bra. If you’re wide-set, splayed, or need a loving lift like myself, I think you and your girls will adore these styles.
For our next case study, I’ll be using our very own Jamie Mizrahi to take a closer look at the most common breast shape: archetypal. And as much Jamie and I truly love getting to spend time in our bras, I would greatly appreciate volunteers for this on-going series (hit me up via firstname.lastname@example.org)!